The Riviera Afloat

In 1932, Italy’s premier shipping lines were merged, at the urging of the fascist regime, into a unified Italian Line.  At the time of the merger, the Navigazione Generale Italiana was building a new vessel to be named Guglielmo Marconi.  Mussolini wanted Italy to make a bold statement and challenge British and German shipping on the Atlantic run.  The Italian Line would counter with two magnificent new vessels that would be the fastest and most luxurious to-date.  They also would be the first superliners to sail on a warmer southern route, departing from the Mediterranean.  

The first of the ships would be larger and faster to compete directly with Bremen and Europa for speed whilst the second, smaller vessel (no slouch in the speed department either) would be a palazzo at sea.  Completed in September 1932, the Rex would challenge the Germans for the Blue Ribband (Hale’s Trophy).  With much fanfare the Rex prepared for her maiden voyage.  However, Mussolini ordered the construction completed ahead of schedule and the ship was not completely ready.  But, he made the railroads run on time and so the ship would run on time as well.

The elegant Rex.  1:1250 model by Mercator.

One September 27, 1932 Rex departed Genoa for New York with a full compliment of passengers, mostly in first class, excited to be on a ship making a record breaking maiden voyage.  Poised to enter the Atlantic near Gibraltar, mechanical problems hindered proper operation of her engines and she had to stop for three days of repairs.  Most of the passengers requested to leave rather than wait.  Rex arrived in New York underpowered and embarrassed.

In November, Rex was joined be her companion ship, Conte di Savoia.  The two ships were the first to feature both indoor and outdoor swimming pools (Conte di Savoia had two outdoor pools).  Surrounding the pools were striped umbrellas and sand to mimic the Riviera.  Indeed, the line promoted the vessels as “the Riviera afloat.” The warmer southern route offered, for part of the voyage at least, an opportunity to use an outdoor pool.  This relaxation area joined space for tennis and traditional deck games on the Lido Deck, a term coined by the Italian Line.

A nice view of Conte di Savoia lying at anchor at Genoa.
Unknown photographer, image in the public domain.

The Italian interiors were a careful blend of exquisite old world luxury and art deco styling.  The public rooms featured soaring ceilings and large windows to let in a flood of sunlight.  The ships featured every amenity imaginable and were designed with an eye toward cruising as well.  They were the embodiment of the finest artistry of Italy.

Conte di Savoia entered service in November 1932 and like Rex, experienced a troublesome maiden voyage.  En route to New York, an outlet valve broke and she began to flood.  If it were not for the strenuous efforts of the crew to patch the hole with cement, the ship would have sunk in a few hours.  Once again, the fascists insisted on pressing the vessel into service before she was ready.

In August 1933, Rex showed what she could do.  Measured from a Mediterranean starting point, she reached the Ambrose Lightship in 4 days, 13 hours, and 58 minutes with an average speed of 28.92 knots.  She won the westbound record from Bremen and was the only Italian vessel to win the Blue Ribband. Despite efforts by the Germans to win in back, she held the honor until 1935 when she lost her record to CGT’s Normandie.

Boeing Y1B-17 fly-by near the Italian liner "Rex," about 800 miles east of New York City. (U.S. Air Force photo)

Despite the opulence of Rex and Conte di Savoia, the southern route did not catch on.  The Italian Line suffered with low passenger numbers and a failing global economy as much as the other shipping lines.  The ships were in service less than a decade when war erupted.  The ships were among the last making regular sailings into 1940, when they were finally brought to Italy for safekeeping.

Sadly, neither vessel survived the war.  Conte di Savoia was sunk in 1943 at Malamocco, Venice where she was disguised as an island.  In 1944, Rex was moored in Capo d’Istria Bay in an attempt to block Trieste harbor.  In preparation for an Allied assault in the region, the RAF sent a dozen Beaufighters to attack the vessel and prompt either her removal or destruction.  Rex suffered 123 direct hits during two separate attacks and capsized in shallow water.

A British Beaufighter aircraft pulls up after attacking the Italian ocean liner Rex with cannon fire and rockets.  Photograph taken by an aircrew member of RAF number 272 Squadron, 7 September 1944.
This is photograph C 4622 from the collections of the Imperial War Museums.

The hull was refloated in 1947 with plans to refurbish the vessel.  However, the part of the harbor where she sank belonged to Yugoslavia and they decided to salvage and sell the vessel for scrap.  She was scrapped on the spot in 1947.

S.S. Rex (1932-1944) built by Ansaldo Shipyards, Genoa, Italy for Italian Line.  51,062 GRT; 880 feet long, 96 feet wide. Steam turbines geared toward quadruple screw.  Service speed 28 knots.  2,258 passengers total (604 first class, 378 second class, 410 tourist class, 866 third class).